Temple of Doom

Day: 126 (July 29)
Starting location: Greenwall Shelter
Ending location: Governor Clement Shelter
State: VT
Miles today: 14.6
Miles total: 1,680.6

There was a 70% chance of rain & thunderstorms last night so we decided to stay in the shelter. We definitely made the right decison because a big thunderstorm came roling through around 2:30am. Recently we both traded out our iPods for radios. We had begun to get really sick of the songs on our iPods and we both like getting the local weather reports on the radio.

We didn't get started until around 8:30am since we knew we had a shorter day. Today we were lucky enough to have a restaurant that was just .5 miles off the trail. We rarely turn down a place to eat if it is less than a mile off the trail. We arrived at the roadcrossing around 12:30pm and walked the shoulder of the road to the restaurant called The Whistle Stop. We both got our fill on food and soda and also got an ice cream sundae from a place next to the restaurant. I got Maine Blueberry and Kristen got Moose tracks. We are both trying to keep a good mojo going for Maine and seeing a moose.

After lunch we got back on the trail and ran into a trail maintenance crew. The entire AT is maintained by many different trail maintenance groups from each state. Almost all the groups consist entirely of volunteers and we always thank them for all their help and work everytime we see them. If it wasn't for them we would be doing a lot more bushwhacking. Anyway, one of the crew members asked us to carry a small stuffed animal moose with a note inside to another trail maintenance 20 miles north. We were happy to do it but talk about "snail mail". We won't get it to them for another 2 days.

On a side note, I spit on myself again today. Yes I said spit. Our mouth gets so dry sometimes that we try to spit but it doesn't go very far and ends up on our shoe, leg, or chin. Everytime this happens I just shake my head and wipe it off. If I am really tired I may just let it dry. I am not sure why I am talking about this but to descibe the small quirks about being on the AT.




This bridge reminded us of Indiana Jones Temple of Doom. Kristen is going to cut the bridge and we are going to fall into a river of crocs.




What is for supper?

Conan + Backwards

Land of Lakes!

Day: 125 (July 28)
Starting location: Griffith Lake
Ending location: Greenwall Shelter
State: VT
Miles today: 14.0
Miles total: 1,666.0

We started our day with the longest stretch of boardwalk in the state of Vermont. The boards allow us to walk above the mud which is great since the trail has been so muddy as of late.

Today we ran into Flying Squirrel who was ridge runner that we met in the Smoky Mountains. She was now heading up a trail maintenance crew here in Vermont. It was neat to see someone we hadn't seen in over 1,200 miles! She informed us that the ATC had set up a detour that would add 3 miles to our day due to a bridge that had been washed out. Because she thought of us as "experienced hikers", she said to just avoid the detour and ford the river. Ha, experienced hikers. Well we took her advice and when we reached the river we laughed because we really just had to rock hop across. We were both relieved that we didn't take the bypass and the extra miles.

We came across another beautiful lake this afternoon. I couldn't help but soak my feet. I wish I could describe how pretty it was with all the spruce trees surrounding the water. I really love Vermont and it's gorgous lakes.



Boardwalks...no rides though :(



Fording the river!!



I love these lakes!

Conan + Backwards

Hiking On Your Day Off

Day: 124 (July 27)
Starting location: Manchester Center, VT
Ending location: Griffith Lake
State: VT
Miles today: 10.6
Miles total: 1,652.0

Don't ask me how but Kristen somehow managed to find a Lilly store while on the AT. To her credit, Manchester is definitely not our typical trail town. Thankfully I have no major damage to report from our trip to the store this morning.

We had a pretty slow morning. Getting going after being in town is very difficult. It is not that we dread getting back on the trail but you want to take advantage of all the comforting conveniences while you have them. We managed to get a ride back to the trail head which was about 5 miles out of town. It is very important to note that many of these trail towns are not right on the trail. Without going into too much detail, we have become very resourceful when it comes to getting in and out of town.

Once on the trail, we met up with Whippersnap. Whippersnap is a very nice guy that Kristen and I like a lot. He is actually an accomplished author and has written a book called The Scenic Lookout Towers of North Carolina. Whippersnap is one of the few thru hikers that we have met that will actually take additional side trails during the day. A matter of fact, yesterday on Whippersnap's day off he went hiking. Yes I said hiking. He has hiked over 1600 miles and he is hiking non-AT trails just for fun. If Kristen and I begin to hike on our days off, someone come pick us up because we have offically lost our minds.

After a pretty short day, we set up camp on Griffith Lake. Kristen mentioned this yesterday but Vermont really has a lot of beautiful lakes and wetlands.




Bromley Mountain




Kristen washing up in Griffith Lake

Conan + Backwards

My Kind of Place

Day: 123 (July 26)
Starting location: Stratton Pond Shelter
Ending location: Manchester Center, VT
State: VT
Miles today: 10.6
Miles total: 1,641.4

As soon as we hit the trail we got a beautiful view of Stratton Pond. The pond was crystal clear and for the first time in 3 days, it wasn't raining. The weather was perfect, the temperature around 70 with a strong breeze which makes for nice hiking. Even though it's been rainy and muddy since we've entered Vermont, I have really enjoyed this state. It really is beautiful with it's thick lush forests and serene ponds. Now if we could only see a moose!

We got into Manchester Center, VT around lunchtime and made a quick stop into the local McDonalds. Manchster is unlike any other trail town we've seen thus far. It's a bit more upscale than the other towns we've been through. I like it because every car is either a Volvo or a Subaru. Oh and how could I forget to mention that this is the first town we've gone through with a Lilly Pulitzer store! I guess that would be the main reason I like it so.

We are staying at local inn called Suttons Place right near the heart of town. After we did our chores like laundry and our resupply at the grocery store, we enjoyed a great pizza dinner with our friend Whippersnap. On Mondays pizza is half price in town. Not a bad deal!




Stratton Pond



I am in heaven

Conan + Backwards

Mouse Attack

Day: 122 (July 25)
Starting location: Glastenbury Mountain
Ending location: Stratton Pond Shelter
State: VT
Miles today: 19.0
Miles total: 1,630.7

Last night we camped next to an old firetower on top of Glastenbury Mountain. We placed our food bags on the 2nd level of the firetower with the thought that no mouse or bear would dare climb the tower to get our food. We couldn't have been more wrong. In the morning we realized that both our waterproof food bags each had two holes. Kristen's bag had holes leading to her bag of cookies and snacks. My bag had holes leading to my bag of sunflower seeds and stuffing. The stuffing was the last dinner I had left and I had no other options for food. One thing was for sure, I wasn't going to let a mouse get the best of me and make me go hungry. So I ate that stuffing just like Thanksgiving dinner. To be honest, I felt a little small and defeated to be eating the "leftovers" from a mouse. I literally was eating what the mouse didn't want.

After we laughed off our mouse mishap, we set out on the trail. In the afternoon we crossed over Stratton Mountain which was where Benton McKaye first invisioned a trail from Georgia to Maine which later became the Appalachian Trail. Vermont continues to be very muddy and it rained for the third straight day today. We are continuing to look out for moose. If we don't see a moose, our thru hike will not be a success..I'm just kidding but we really want to see a moose.




Exhibit A (Klauks v. Mouse): Holes in stuff sack and cookie bag




Wetlands are prime areas for moose. Kristen is keeping her eyes peeled. Notice the beaver lodge to the left.

Conan + Backwards

Moose Tracks

Day: 121 (July 24)
Starting location: Seth Warner Shelter
Ending location: Glastenberry Mountain
State: VT
Miles today: 21.9
Miles total: 1,611.7


It rained most of the night but we woke up nice and dry in the shelter. We quickly packed up and said our goodbyes to Thunder and Daytripper. Tripp has to go home for about a month for his brothers wedding back in Georgia. We honestly don't know when we will see them again. The friendships we have made on the trail such as our friendship with Thunder and Daytripper will last much longer than our time hiking, which is just another great aspect of the AT.

Once we hit the trail it didn't take long for our boots and legs to get muddy. It's been raining a lot lately and the trail has turned to mud. I think we will now refer to Vermont as Vermud. However, as we were hiking we noticed a new set of paw tracks in the mud. We hadn't seen these tracks before and we both quickly concluded that they were moose tracks! Vermont is the first state that has a moose population, and we can't wait to see one! We hear they are big!

We finally arrived at our shelter around 7:00 and sadly there was nowhere for us to set up our tent. So we hiked on a little farther with our friend Marty McFly and set up camp near an old fire tower. The views from the top were amazing and we all enjoyed a lovely dinner up there. The forest that we are camping in tonight smells like Christmas because of all the fir trees. It's a really pleasant smell, it beats the smell of our wet socks!!



Moose tracks!! Not the ice cream folks!



Cooking dinner on top of the fire tower.




View from the top!

Conan + Backwards

3 States To Go

Day: 120 (July 23)
Starting location: North Adams, MA
Ending location: Seth Warner Shelter
State: VT
Miles today: 6.9
Miles total: 1,589.8

After a great zero day in Dalton, MA, Tom drove us back to the trail head in North Adams, MA. We did a quick 4 day resupply at the local Stop & Shop and headed back on the trail. Bad weather was in the forecast and it began to rain almost immediately once we got on the trail. It was probably the coolest day we have had in over 3 weeks, so the rain was a bit chilly.

We crossed into Vermont after 4 miles today. Kristen and I both have never been above MA so we are both really excited to be in new territory. It still is a little hard to believe that we hiked through 11 states with only 3 states to go. For the remainder of our journey, we will be slowing down our pace for a few reasons. First, the terrain in Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine will be the toughest we have faced since the beginning of our journey. Second, we do not want to summit Katahdin any sooner than the middle of September.

We reached our first shelter after 6.9 miles in the pouring rain at 2pm. We waited out the rain until 4pm but the rain never quit. In the beginning of our journey, we might of pressed on. But instead of subjecting ourselfs to the rain, we just pulled out our sleeping bags and called it a day. We spent the rest of the day hanging out in the shelter and talking with all the other hikers.


Tom the trail angel




Welcome to Vermont in the rain

Conan + Backwards

Let's Go to the Movies!

Day: 119 (July 22)
Starting location: Dalton, MA
Ending location: Dalton, MA
State: MA
Miles today: 0.0
Miles total: 1,559.6

I guess we were tired after our 23 mile slackpack, because we slept until 10:00. It was great. I took a quick shower then Thunder and I headed down to the local library to use their computers. I needed to do some research on the logistics of getting back to Jacksonville after we finish the trail. It's bittersweet to start planning for after our journey!!

After the library, Tom gave us a ride to the mall where there is a movie theater. We hadn't been to the movies in months! First we had to hit up the food court for dinner. For the movie, we just had to get a large popcorn and diet coke. We even went back for free refills on both! We saw the movie Inception with Leonardo DiCaprio and we all really enjoyed it. It was nice to sit still for 2 whole hours!

All in all it was a great zero day!




I made Jason wear this shirt around town all day. The great thing is that he really did enjoy the Notebook!

Conan + Backwards

Trail Angel

Day: 118 (July 21)
Starting location: Dalton, MA
Ending location: North Adams, MA
State: MA
Miles today: 23.3
Miles total: 1,582.9

After a great stay with the Moynihans, Patrick dropped us off at the trail head in Dalton, MA. After our goodbyes, we went into a local breakfast place to get one last good meal before hitting the trail. It just so happened that many other hikers had the same idea and we found about 10 other thru hikers including Daytripper and Thunder. It turned out that they stayed at Tom Levardi's house in downtown Dalton last night.

Tom is a local trail angel that allows hikers to tent in his back yard, stay in his bedrooms, use the house shower, and provides laundry and shuttles to the trail. For all of these services, Tom will not accept a single cent. Tom is hands down the most exordinary trail angel that we have incountered through our travels. To put this into perspective you must understand that he is accomodating complete strangers that smell and look like trash. Today I contimplated how many complete strangers my parents welcomed into their home. After thinking for a while, I always came up with the same number...zero. Tom has been doing this for over 10 years and meeting him has been one of the highlights of our trip. Before starting our journey, many people tried to convince me that I needed to carry a gun. After meeting Tom, I now know I made the right decision.

Daytripper and Thunder were going to slackpack south 23 miles from North Adams back to Dalton through Tom's shuttle. It didn't take much convincing for us to decide to do the same. Tom loaded 9 hikers & packs into his jeep and drove us the 30 minutes to North Adams. We had a great hike today and we hit Mt Greylock which is the highest point in Massachusetts.

After a long day, we reached Dalton just before dark around 8:30pm. We walked straight over to Jacobs Food & Spirits for dinner and drinks. After dinner we walked to Tom's house where over 10 other hikers were staying the night.




Hey its the boy from Appalachia, how are ya doing?




The light tower on top of Mt Greylock




Slackpacking Mt Greylock

Conan + Backwards

Cookie Monster

Day: 117 (July 20)
Starting location: US 20
Ending location: Dalton, MA
State: MA
Miles today: 19.0
Miles total: 1,559.6

We woke up and enjoyed a hearty breakfast at the Moynihans before we began our slackpack. Patrick
dropped us off at the trail at 9:30 and agreed to pick us up in Dalton at 4:30, which is about 20 miles north. We hit the trail with our daypacks ready to do some trail running. Normally in real life I despise running. But on the trail it's really fun, I guess we just feel so light without our heavy packs.

It didn't take long for us to catch up with Thunder, Daytripper and Whippersnap. We hiked with them until we reached the cookie lady's house. Marilyn and Roy live right off the trail and they offer free cookies and water to hikers that pass by. Of course we stopped to enjoy some cookies, but we needed to hustle to meet Patrick in Dalton.

We made it to Dalton right on time and we headed back towards Lenox. Before leaving town Patrick gave us the history of Dalton and it's most prominent family the Cranes. Some of you may be familiar with my favorite stationary company Crane and Co. Little did I know that I was in the town where my cherished stationary is from! What I also didn't know is that Crane and Co. also makes the paper that all US money is printed on. Fun fact, huh? On our trip back we drove by Herman Melville's home. Lots of famous writers and artists hail from this area of Massachusetts.

We had a great evening filled with hamburgers, ice cream and Bill O'Reilly. Thanks again to the Moynihans for their hospitality! We had a lovely time in Lenox!




Cookies from the Cookie Lady




We cross Railroad tracks all the time.


Conan + Backwards

Shower, Bed, Food

Day: 116 (July 19)
Starting location: Mt Wilcox South Lean-to
Ending location: US 20 / Lenox, MA
State: MA
Miles today: 17.4
Miles total: 1,540.6

It was so nice to see Daytripper and Thunder again. When you seperate from people on the trail you oftentimes never know if you will ever see them again. We have often talked about setting up a 2010 thru hiker reunion at some point next year. One thing is for sure, Kristen and I are going to do some serious trail magic for the 2011 thru hiker class.

Today we met up with our very good family friends the Moynihans. The Moynihans live in Lenox, MA which is truly a postcard perfect New England town. The Moynihans live in a beautiful home and allowed us to take over the entire bottom floor. We had a great time talking about old times over a amazing steak dinner. The great thing is, we don't have to leave them tomorrow. They will be slackpacking us tomorrow to Dalton, MA and taking us back to their home.

The amount of help and support that we have recieved from friends and family while on the trail has been incredible. A simple shower, bed, and good meal may not sound like a lot, but it truly makes all the difference in the world. The help that we have recieved has contributed a lot to our success thus far on the trail. We have stayed with friends & family in North Carolina, Virginia, Washington DC, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Massachusetts. All your help has not been forgotten.




Watch where you step




Our tent for the next two nights

Conan + Backwards

Lightning Crashes

Day: 115 (July 18)
Starting location: Hemlocks Lean-To
Ending location: Mt. Wilcox South Lean To
State: MA
Miles today: 19.7
Miles total: 1,523.2

Neither of us slept very well last night. At around 12:30 AM I could have sworn that someone was walking around outside shining their headlight everywhere. As it turns out, Mother Nature gave us a lightning show we had never seen. Jason pulled out his iPhone and checked the weather with our Weather Channel App. The beauty of technology! Although the major cell was slightly north of us, it still felt like the lightning was all around us. I guess you could say I was scared. I just started praying and fairly soon the lightning got further and further away. Boy was I glad when that storm ended!

We began hiking and came across more wild blueberries. Y'all, they are so good! Nothing like a little fruit to start your morning. We got a call from our old pals Thunder and Daytripper who told us they were a few miles ahead but were going to take the day to wait for us. We met them at a pond in the late afternoon. It was so good to see them both, we had lots of catching up to do. It's crazy to think that we hiked with them for almost 500 miles, but that was nearly 800 miles ago! Hopefully our schedules work out so that we can stick together for a while.




The shelter area we camped at last night.

Conan + Backwards

Another State Bites the Dust

Day: 114 (July 17)
Starting location: Salisbury, CT
Ending location: Hemlocks Lean-To
State: MA
Miles today: 14.1
Miles total: 1,503.5

After two great nights with Maria in Salisbury, CT, we set out for the trail around 8:30am. Kristen was really beginning to feel better which was great news. The AT wasn't going to go down without a fight and Kristen's illness was just another challenage that we needed to overcome. Kristen was certainly a trooper during this difficult time on the trail. There was a lot of tears shed over the last couple of days but she never complained about the situation.

Today we crossed into Massachusetts. This marks our 11th state with only four states to go. The states we have remaining are Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. Kristen and I are really excited to reach Vermont. People say that Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine are the best sections on the entire trail. Saving the best for last.

We feel that we haven't been showing many landscape pictures. Here are a few.




A couple of waterfalls today




Entering MA




Blueberries anyone?

Conan + Backwards

I'm Feeling Better!

Day: 113 (July 16)
Starting location: Salisbury,CT
Ending location: Salisbury, CT
State: CT
Miles today: 0.0
Miles total: 1,489.4

Even though it was nice waking up in a comfortable bed, I still was feeling bad. We tried to get into the a nearby doctor but he didn't have any open appointments. Since this was day 5 of my stomach issues, I was starting to get worried. We were finally able to get a hold of our friend Brooklyn who had an extra refill of his giardia medication. He had gotten the illness just last week and was kind enough to let us have his refill. Thanks Brooklyn--he just about saved me! We got the prescription filled and I started the medication. Our plan was to take the day off to see if the antibiotics worked. If they did, we would hike on the next day. If they didn't, we would go to he hospital.

By noon I was already feeling much better. Medicine is an amazing thing friends. What is even more amazing is my wonderful husband who has taken care of me through this whole ordeal. I don't know what I would have done without him. It's very comforting to know I have him to lean on through anything, even giardia!

We spent our entire day in bed watching TV. Usually when we take zero days, we have lots of chores to do in town. I can't tell you how nice it was to just relax. We even got to watch Ellen and Oprah, which is such a treat!

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and prayers, it really meant a lot! I will pray that you all never get giardia because it is simply the pits!

Conan + Backwards

Was That Your Stomach?

Day: 112 (July 15)
Starting location: Silver Hill Campsite
Ending location: Salisbury, CT
State: CT
Miles today: 22.5
Miles total: 1,489.4

We normally wake up to our alarm at 6am, but this morning was different. I woke up to a moaning and growling sound coming from Kristen's stomach. It was so loud. I honestly never knew a human could make such a noise. Kristen did a little extra distance today just from running in and out of the woods all day long.

In all seriousness, Kristen is really struggling. It has been 72 hours since her issues started, so we have ruled out this as a food related problem. We believe she may have gotten giardiasis. Giardiasis is fairly common on the trail due to relaying upon streams and springs for water. We always treat our water so it is difficult to tell where she got it.

Today marked the second day that we felt that we needed to get off the trail. Kristen was weak and we felt the need to be closer to civilization. In order to get into town today, we choose to bypass the trail and walk the road into Salisbury, CT. This marks the 1st time that we have ever deviated from the trail. It was less than a 5 mile deviation but we felt it was the right thing to do today.

We found a place to stay at a home in Salisbury, CT that offers rooms to hikers. The home is owned by Maria McCabe who is a very nice elderly women. You can tell that she loves the company of having hikers in her home.

Tomorrow we are going to find a doctor for Kristen to see. Maria offered to give us a ride.




Sick wife

Conan + Backwards

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

Day: 111 (July 14)
Starting location: Kent, CT
Ending location: Silver Hill Campsite
State: CT
Miles today: 10.2
Miles total: 1,466.9

*Warning Graphic Content*

Yesterday, Jason mentioned that I was struggling with my stomach. Well that is putting it lightly. The morning began with an early morning trip to the restroom followed by 10 more trips throughout the day. I know it's gross, but we write about the good, the bad and the ugly. Hopefully I start to feel better soon because it's a little frightning being in the middle of the woods and not knowing what is wrong with yourself. Not to mention we are running out of toilet paper. And don't worry folks, I am drinking plenty of Gatorade and staying hydrated. Thank goodness for my wonderful husband who I know is looking out for me. It's really comforting to have someone to lean on as much as I lean on him.

In other exciting trail news, we saw a deer swimming in the Housatonic River. He was really having a good time swimming back and forth from bank to bank. I didn't even know deers could swim! Did you?




Mr. Deer getting out of the water.

Conan + Backwards

Trail Chores

Day: 110 (July 13)
Starting location: AT Railroad Station
Ending location: Kent, CT
State: CT
Miles today: 17.4
Miles total: 1,456.4

Despite the constant passing trains, we both had a sound sleep. The trains would literally shake our entire tent but honestly it was really neat. The fact that the Appalachian Trail has it's own train stop into New York is so cool.

Today we passed another state line and entered into the state of Connecticut. The states are flying by now and we will be in Massachusetts in just a few days. We would like to give a home state booya to the Vella Family who have been following our blog closely.

We got into Kent, CT around 4:30pm with a long list of chores. Yes, even on the trail you can't escape chores. We quickly ran by the local outfitter to pick up my replacement metal stay that was sent by Osprey Packs. We then went to the laundry mat and washed all our clothes. We actually washed them twice because they smelled really bad even after the first washing. While our clothes were drying, we walked over to the Davis IGA to resupply for 5 days.

Kent didn't have many great places to stay but we heard that the local Episcopal Church allowed hikers to camp behind the church. This option was not in our guide book, so we asked the father just to make sure. He said that was fine and we thanked him for helping us. After setting up our tent, we walked over to the Kent Pizza Garden. It was a nice restaurant with good food. Kristen didn't eat hardly anything because she has been really struggling with her stomach since leaving NYC. Being sick on the trail is the worst. Hopefully she will begin to feel better soon.




Welcome to CT

Conan + Backwards

Trains are Loud

Day: 109 (July 12)
Starting location: Pawling, NY
Ending location: AT Railroad Station
State: NY
Miles today: 2.3
Miles total: 1,438.3


Even though we were in the heart of NYC, the traffic didn't wake us up. We rolled out of bed around around 9am and hit the streets for some last minute shopping. Sadly, we checked out of our lovely hotel and waited for our train to arrive at Grand Central. As soon as we grabbed a seat on the train we heard a knock on the window. It was our pal Phineas who was headed back after taking some time off the trail. I couldn't believe we ran into someone we knew in NYC, especially a hiker. We had a nice time catching up on our train ride back to Pawling.

It was now late afternoon and it was time to get back to the trail. We only wanted to do a few miles so that is just what we did. Before we reached our campsite for the night we passed to AT railroad stop. It is literally a platform that is right next to the train tracks. We would have taken a train from there into the city but it has a very limited service schedule. I bet the conductors just laugh when they see hikers sitting there.

We had heard from some folks that a garden center next to the railroad allows hikers to camp in their mulch area. We took full advantage of this campsite as we didn't want to hike any further. The only drawback is that our tent was 10 feet from the railroad tracks. No joke. All night long whenever a train would roll by we could feel the ground shake. Jason and I were so tired from our trip to NYC that it didn't bother us one bit!! How is that for a sound sleep?



Hiker in the city




The AT railroad station




Notice the train tracks behind our tent.

Conan + Backwards

New York City

Day: 108 (July 11)
Starting location: Pawling, NY
Ending location: Pawling, NY
State: NY
Miles today: 0.0
Miles total: 1,436.0

We picked up the train into New York City from the Pawling Station at 8:49am. It was 60 miles and just short of 2 hours into Grand Central Station. From Grand Central, it was just a short walk to our hotel The Roosevelt. Kristen really wanted a gyro from a street vendor so we walked down the street and found about 10 vendors all selling gyros. It was certainly a bit different than starving on the trail.

Early that day we had made plans to go see our good friends Casey and Langhorne Shea in their apartment in Brooklyn. You may remember Casey as the person who sang, "Fly Me To the Moon" to Kristen during the reception at our wedding. Casey is a very talented musician and actually has a new CD out. Here is the link to his website:

http://caseysheamusic.com/

So Kristen and I caught a taxi into Brooklyn from our hotel in midtown around 2:30 and arrived at their apartment just in time for the world cup final Spain vs. Netherlands. It was so nice to talk and visit with Casey and Langhorne. After being in the woods for so long, it is so nice to see familiar faces. It was also really neat to see the "living" side of New York. You often see the tourist part, but you rarely see how people actually live in the city. After the world cup game, Casey took us up on top of the roof of his 4 story building to see the spectular views of the skyline of the city. It really was something to see.

After we said our goodbyes to Casey and Langhorne, we got back into a taxi for the 30 minute drive back into the city. We both took a quick shower and walked over to Carmine's for our 8pm reservation. I had never eaten at Carmine's but had always heard about how great it was from my mom and Ms. Nancy. Carmine's serves a family style dinner so most items can feed up to 4 people. This didn't bother us much since both of our appetites are off the charts these days. We ordered a caesar salad and cheese ravioli. My mom was right, it was great.

After a long day, we were both really tired and retired into our soft king bed. What a great day.

BTW, The Ponte Vedra Recorder had another article on us. Here is the link:

http://www.pontevedrarecorder.com/content/2141_1.php



Kristen getting on the Metro North train in Pawling, NY. New York City here we come.




Grand Central Station




Culture Shock!



Times Square

Conan + Backwards

Singing in the Rain

Day: 107 (July 10)
Starting location: RPH Shelter
Ending location: Pawling, NY
State: NY
Miles today: 17.5
Miles total: 1,436.0

Today the sky opened up and answered our prayers. It poured for two hours and rained for much of the morning. It was welcomed by us for three reasons: it made it cooler to hike, it will hopefully fill up some of the springs and streams and it gave us a little shower. It was great. The only downside to the rain is that the bugs are going to be out in full force. Good thing I have a bug net! Jasons says I look like a lunch lady when I wear it, but it gets the job done.

Tonight we are staying at a town park in Pawling, NY. Have you ever passed a town or state park with an outdoor shower and wondered, who would ever shower here? Well, we do. It was really refreshing too. We may have looked like homeless people, but technically speaking, we are homeless.

Off to NYC in the morning!!





Jason next to the Dover Oak, the largest tree in the North on the AT.

Conan + Backwards

Trail Magic Here We Come

Day: 106 (July 9)
Starting location: Graymoor Spiritual Life Center
Ending location: RPH Shelter
State: NY
Miles today: 18.8
Miles total: 1,418.5

Today was somewhat of an uneventful day. We had heard that some trail maintainers were doing some trail magic at RPH Shelter. It was about 18.8 from Graymoor Spiritual Life Center to RPH shelter so there was no way we were going to pass that up. When we arrived at RPH, we were welcomed with cold soda, chicken, steaks, fresh salad, and blueberry shortcake. Wow was it good. Many of the trail maintainers were past thru hikers and can really talk your ear off about the trail. Most of them can remember their thru hikes like it was yesterday and describe it as one of the great highlights of their life. When we describe our journey to people we meet, most of them tell us, "I wish I would have done something like that." It is a bit sad that people have to resort to that statement. With that being said, it can be difficult for people, especially young people, to have the foresight to pursue their ambitions and dreams before life gets too complicated.

We saw our first southbounder today. Southbounders are hiking the trail from north to south from Mt. Katahdin to Springer Mt Georgia. Most southbounders start in early July so we will slowly begin to run into more and more of them. It is great to talk to southbounders because they can give you great detail on the trail and the terrain ahead. Only a couple hundred people southbound each year while 1,500 to 2,000 people hike the trail north each year.


The old iron water pump at RPH Shelter




We see deer almost everyday. This one wasn't scared at all.

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Busy Bees

Day: 105 (July 8)
Starting location: William Brien Memorial Shelter
Ending location: Graymoor Spiritual Life Center
State: NJ
Miles today: 15.3
Miles total: 1,399.7

Today was a busy day for us on the trail. We woke up early and were hiking by 7:00. We had to trek an extra .5 miles to a visitor center on the Palisades Parkway so we could fill up with water. Once we were back on the trail, we started to climb Bear Mountain. It was difficult, but at least it was cloudy! Today was less hot, however it was much more humid. The sweat was just pouring off of us. Once we reached the top we got to see the Hudson Valley and the Hudson River. It would have been great if it weren't so hazy. After a while we began going down the mountain. The trail had been rerouted to a nice gradual path that was detailed with stone steps. This project must have taken volunteers forever to complete considering it was over a mile long. We later found out it took 4 years.

We reached the town of Fort Mongomery and had a quick bite to eat at the snack bar. We then followed the AT through the Trailside Zoo which is actually the lowest elevation on the Trail (124 ft.). Hopefully it's not all uphill from here! One of the guidebooks describes the zoo as an emotional experience for hikers because the animals that we are used to seeing in the wild are caged. To be honest it was a little sad, most of the animals seemed sickly for some reason.

Next, the trail took us over the Hudson River. It was a large bridge that even had sucicide hotline phones on the sides. We must have been a couple hundred feet above the water.

After hiking for another few hours we emerged from the woods and saw a Shell Station. This was very exciting for us hikers as mini marts carry cold beverages and candy. We both downed two gatorades immediately. It was awesome.

Tonight we are camping at a monastery called the Graymoor Spiritual Life Center. They allow hikers to camp at the ballfields where they have picnic tables and a shower. We haven't checked out the monastery yet, but we will in the morning. However, tonight I will make sure to say a few extra Hail Mary's.








Entering the Zoo







We finally got a picture of a bear. Too bad he was in the Zoo!







A Bald Eagle folks!








Getting ready to cross the Hudson River!







Over the river on Bear Mountain Bridge

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Avoiding the Heat

Day: 104 (July 7)
Starting location: Antons on the Lake
Ending location: William Brien Memorial Shelter
State: NY
Miles today: 9.7
Miles total: 1,384.4

We had a great nights sleep with the AC on as high as it could go. The owner of the hotel drove us back to the trail head around 8am. Today was going to be almost as hot as yesterday with a high of 100 degrees. Due to the heat, we planned on only doing about 10 miles today. 10 miles is a very short day by normal standards. On a normal day, we often completed 10 miles by noon. Today we stopped hiking during the heat of the day from 12:30 to 4:00 at Lake Tiorati in order to avoid the heat.

Tomorrow is suppose to cool off so we will do a normal mileage day.




Avoiding the heat




Lake Tiorati

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Too Darn Hot

Day: 103 (July 6)
Starting location: Wildcat Shelter
Ending location: Antons on the Lake
State: NY
Miles today: 9.9
Miles total: 1,374.7

We knew that this week was going to be hot. But we had no idea just how difficult it was going to make hiking. We were on the trail by 8:15 and by 8:25 we were dripping with sweat. At one point during the day, I could litterally wring out my shirt with sweat. The heat was just oppressive, with a high temperature over 100 degrees. Jason and I recently traded our iPods for radios and almost every radio station was talking about the heat. It just so happens that during record heat in NY, there is also hardly any water sources on the trail that haven't dried up. Luckily for us there are lots of trail angels in the area that have dropped off jugs of water at most of the road crossings.

We hiked 8 hours and only made it 10 miles. Normally in that time frame we would have gone 16-18 miles. I just felt like we weren't making any progress. I am sure I was a real treat for Jason to be around because of my cheery attitude. To be honest, we were both pretty miserable. It was the first time on the trail that we were concerned about our situation considering the extreme heat and lack of water.

Finally, we hit a road crossing and we decided to call up the nearest hotel and have them pick us up. 30 minutes later we were in a cool hotel room with a king size bed. We had a nice night catching up on our blogs (sorry for the delay) and eating real NY pizza. We went from having a really bad day, to a really great night!

I hate to say it but the AT really got the best of us today!!




Our cute hotel on Greenwood Lake.


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New York State of Mind

Day: 102 (July 5)
Starting location: Vernon, NJ
Ending location: Wildcat Shelter
State: NY
Miles today: 17.1
Miles total: 1,364.8

Today was the last day we would see Kristen's parents until we reach Maine. They dropped us off at the trail head in Vernon, NJ and we said our goodbyes. After only about an hour on the trail the metal stay on the side of my pack snapped. This is pretty critical part of a pack but thankfully it broke toward the bottom. The great thing about being a thru hiker is the gear companies will cater to our every need. The last thing a company wants is a thru hiker bashing their equipment all the way to Maine. So I called Osprey and told them we would be in Kent, CT on Tuesday and they said they would happily overnight a replacement.

Water has become quite a problem on the trail. This year has been a below average rain fall on the AT and many of the water sources are beginning to be dry. Rain can often be miserable on the trail, but it is critical to have good water sources. Knowing you need water and finding a dry water source is an unsettling feeling. Worrying about water can make for stressful days, so we have begun to carry 3 liters of water each.

Today we also crossed into New York. It is always exciting to cross through into another state. Kristen and I are both excited to take a train into New York City on Sunday. Stay tuned for that.

We ran into Ichabod and his parents that were doing trail magic. It is always funny how trail magic works. It always comes at times when we really need it. When we reached the trail magic at 5:30pm we were almost completely out of water and on the verge of dehydrationThanks so much to the Lambert family.

Today was the first day that we finished in the dark. We hiked the remaining 2 miles under headlamp. Hiking in the dark is interesting. You always have the feeling that someone is watching you. We prefer not to hike in the dark but sometimes you have to.



We got ice cream at Bellvale Farms at 7pm. The line was 30 people long. A nice couple bought our milkshakes

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